Sunday, February 24, 2008

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Söderköpingskjorteln

County Museum in West Yorkshire sets currently out various medieval finds from Söderderköping. Among the finds are exhibited Södeköpingskjorteln in a dimly lit glass case. Her skirt is dated to the 1200s, was colored in blue and red in the mi-party. Her skirt is placed on the stand with a fragmenatarisk sleeve and it has been interpreted to cover the top and the assumed front of a glass plate at a level below. I have previously studied Nockerts interpretation of Söderköpingskjorteln as described on Marc Carlson's page - Some Clothing of the Middle Ages . I have not understood the logic of the garment after Nockerts description and therefore have not put more interest in the find.



Now, when I had the opportunity to see the find with their own eyes, I reacted in a number of things. The garment parts were not arranged in the order listed in the description on Marc Carlson's page. I think I can see nuanced differences among the color between the parts (see above) and assuming here that there is plaggest original colors to show through the brown color of the fabric had to be in the earth. I guess even the garment in all parts from the right side up because I have not seen any seam allowances on top. With these assumptions, I find that the garment, so that it lies on the stand, would create a garment with a diagonally same color on the right-front and left-rear and left-front and right rear. The art of the period, I have mostly seen the garments with the same color front and rear on the same side of the center line when they are vertical dual of m-party.

To get an overview of the garment and its parts, I have with the help of digital imaging scientists to simulate topvy of garment parts to be able to put together these elements in a way that makes sense.


Above shows the back parts taken from two different photos. Below is the same part of the perspective is distorted to simulate topvy. Planks in the background and the fact that two of the pieces have parallels sides eased when the debtor to obtain credible perspective.



Above shows the two images I assumed to simulate topvy of the front piece. Note that fofot been in relatively shallow angle because the shelf where the cover posted prevented a higher photo angle. One can therefore assume that the risk of errors in perspektivförvrägningen to topvy are higher for the front. The perspektivfrändrade image is shown below.


To make a garment with the same color front and rear on the same side of the center line so I moved apart the parts that have been interpreted as baktycke to my place between them in front. Below is the garment laid out symmetrically around the center line up. Note that the scale and the fragments, length probably is partly wrong because they rely on different photos and the perspective has changed. I also shifted some parts of the height to get the big wedges, which was now in hand would have approximately the same width at the same height. The red lines indicate that part of the fabric become alienated from the image.


Garments with straight pieces front and rear, with large high wedges on the sides and smaller, lower center of the wedges are common in Greenland finds. I do this find a comparison between my approximate picture of Söderköpingskjorteln and the Norlund described the find, Herjolfsnes no.43 , which are outlined on Marc Carlson's page .

in black to the right, a vector based verson of Marc Carlson's sketch of Herjolfsnes no.43. Söderköping discovery can be compared with the same sketch in red which has changed through the wedge at center front removed and the garment is otherwise made symmetrically around the center line up. Structurally see in any case I very similar. However, it is possible that my analysis is at odds with how the garment found in the soil, the surviving remnants of the seams are, etc. The sleeve is unfortunately too poorly preserved for a relevant comparison to be possible.

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