Touring Sewing I started many years ago that handsy a tent. My girlfriend had just broken up and I felt no further. I found that if I still should feel bad I might as well do something productive while. So, I started to sew me a tent. Sadly, this is how afterwards, I began to feel better before I was finished, the tent was not quite clear. It can be used but sealing the opening of the tent and a few other details were not ready made. It was almost clear now for Medieval Week in Visby and I took the opportunity to shoot it for the blog.
A simple equestrian camping, 3x5 m base and 1.8 m high. It is sewn from the army linen draw sheet which is tightly woven, relatively thin and completely impregnated. It has been demonstrated to be impregnated by no means necessary as long as you have sufficient slope on the sheet and also avoid any access to the sheet from the inside. Draw sheet has a width of 80 cm, which is a very comfortable width for a tent of this size.
is stitched webbing reinforcement onto the tent's opening. The tent is sewn with waxed segelmakarnål and sailmaker yarn from
Beck and Rep. on Gotland. An important detail to make this process quick and easy using sykrokar. I had a hook that I drew in a thong on your waist and a hook that I hold in an element. In this way, it stretched fabrics in the right position without having to pin and have both hands free for stitching. There is also a good idea to keep track of how long stitches are taken. I found that 90-10 mm between stitches was appropriate given the appearance and time efficiency.
calf muscles are sewn together with double rows whipping and about 2 cm overlap. To the extent that you do not have the selvedge folded raw edge in the overlap. The fabric is folded so that it constantly throws around a folded edge which makes work much easier. After having sewn first edge turns to the fabric and fold it so that others sömen also sewn on the weight of edge from the back. In the picture above you can clearly see the result where one roll seam is visible from the front and the other from the back.
Tent is for most a major investment in both time and money. I will therefore demonstrate a relatively simple way of using modern technology to plan their tents and avoid unnecessary mistakes once you put the scissors in the fabric. I used two free software that has been of great help to me when planning including tents. Same programs and the same basic method, I even used to generate patterns to jonglerbollar, headgear other projects where I want to translate a 3D object's surface to a sewing pattern. The programs I use here is called Blender 3D (advanced 3D graphic modeling tool) and Inkscape (vector graphics program). Both are free software, which is free to download and use. On the home page above, there are programs to download and links to tutorials and other useful information to get started.
We begin by modeling the tent in Blender 3D. I will not go into detail how I do this, there are good tutorials for on the website and it is very elementary geometry it is about so it should not pose some problems for the person who puts back into it. Before modeling the tent do I calculate the wallpaper roll of fabric and expect the help of the base surface into shape so that the radius of the tubular glands and a long length of the side breaks even on an integer curtains. My tent has wallpaper roll 76 cm, exclusive seam allowance, leaving radius 1.5 m with six panels in each circle and 3x76 cm in long hand. With this in mind, I modeled the tent below so that it is in full scale in the program.
When I modeled the tent that I have been pleased with the shape I marked two edges and marked them as seams (mark the desired line and press Ctrl-E -> "Mark Seam"). Now I know the program was the tent should be cut up when I then flatten out the geometry.
I now share the canvas in two and set up working the fields so that I have "UV Face Select" on the left and the "UV / Image Editor" on the right. I hold the mouse pointer over the left field of work and press 'a' so that the whole geometry is selected. Däreter I press "u" and select "unwraps". I will receive the flattened geometry of the working area to the right and saves it to a svg file (UVS -> Scripts -> Save UV Face Layout). Of course I save work at regular intervals so as not to ever get work done.
I turn now Blender 3D and open the svg file in Inkscape.
Each part of the flattened geometry is now a vector graphic. The whole geometry is a grouping of objects and thereby hangs together as an object. I peel it up so that the wallpaper roll is the same as actual wallpaper roll, but keep me on a scale of 1:10 for easier printing. I duplicate the geometry, move one to the page and press Ctrl-u to dissolve the group. I can now move around elements and add it on the line so that it would be subcontracted to a fabric. When I'm satisfied I gruperar the now well-ordered parts (Ctrl-g) and can now easily read the fabric requirement that the length of the selected object (still in the scale 1:10). If I want I can also print out the flattened geometry so that I cut with scissors and tape can build a simple model that one can look at, sample furniture, etc.
When you get the hang of how programs work, they are very powerful design tool that helps to save time, effort and avoid unnecessary mistakes.
